Bring back the dhoti to your wardrobe

Bring back the dhoti to your wardrobe

    Dhoti, a traditional Indian garment meant for men, is in vogue and how. But, this time, it is the women who are hotting it up. The classic Indian dhoti is being revived by many Indian designers in contemporary designs, and it’s no surprise to see the likes of Priyanka Chopra, Sonakshi Sinha, Genelia D’ Souza, Prateik and Kiran Rao donning its modern version — the dhoti pants! 

 
REINVENTING INDIAN CULTURE Mumbai-based Masaba Gupta, one of those who has worked extensively on the garment, says that her whole design aesthetic is about reviving Indian culture and that’s why this was a natural step for her. She adds, “Why do we need to be inspired by western designs when we have so much here! Angarkhas, anarkali, dhotis… we just need to modify them a bit and they are ready for a modern avatar. I have designed a dhoti jumpsuit with t-shirt on top and dhoti below… it’s a onepiece creation!”
    Designer Payal Singhal, who is also known for her innovative take on dhotis adds, “My recent fashion week collection was inspired by the many adivasi tribes of India and their culture. Dhotis are a traditional Indian silhouette — you can play with the proportions of the design. You can also play around with the tops and accessories to change the look according to the look that you are aiming for.”
    But, of the many kinds of bottoms in trend right now, how does one differentiate between a harem pant, a patiala salwar and a dhoti pant? Clarifies Masaba, “The placing of the pleats on the pants distinguishes a dhoti from a patiala or a harem. They belong to the same family though and look more or less similar.”
    She goes on to explain, “The construction of the harem is slightly different though. The pleats are generally placed waist-down to mid-thigh on the front. The patiala salwar utilises a lot of fabric. The patiala salwar also balloons up below the knee and adds volume or ghera to the silhouette. Also, harem pants are most commonly available in fabrics such as lycra, stretch and are thus, flimsier than dhoti pants, which are generally stitched and preferred in stiffer, starchy fabrics.” Dhoti pants can also camouflage excess weight, while a harem pant can cling to your body, exposing unnecessary bulges.”
    Payal seconds Masaba’s opinion and says, “Pleating in different areas makes the difference. For dhotis, the pleating is done inside of the leg. The bottom part of the three silhouettes is also different. Middle-Eastern harems are elasticised and tighter at the bottom. The patiala salwar is wider at the end.”

 
SHAPE APPROPRIATE? Contrary to popular opinion, dhotis are not shape-appropriate. They work for petite women as they add volume to the body and they also work for curvier women, if you alter the shape a bit. Masaba’s tulipshaped dhoti pants grip the body well, thus not a d d i n g excess volume to t h e lower
b o dy. They are tailor made for pear-shaped bodies, which most Indian women possess. On the waist, you could wear a belt in the front to stylise it which will make you look slender. Don’t go for elastic in front of the pants as the pants will end up looking like pyjamas. The elastic should be used around the waist on the back. Wearing an A-line fitted top or a kurta will also make you look slimmer. 

 
BENEFITS As Payal rightly points out, dhotis can easily replace your jeans and leggings! You can’t wear a short top with your leggings but you can afford to wear one on dhotis. Besides, dhotis are travel-friendly and look great on flats, mojadis, gladiators and even regular chappals! 

STYLING IT WELL You can also dress it up wth a semi-formal top, statement jewellery and heels for a dinner date. For a casual outing, girls can pair it with a ganji, like Priyanka Chopra did recently! A stole or a jacket with a tank top also works, and so do chunky bangles . If your dhoti has prints on it, avoid jewellery. Go for light coloured tops. 

FOR THE GUYS Some time ago, actor Prateik was seen sporting Masaba’s signature dhoti pants on the ramp and his swagger added oodles to the look. Adds Masaba, “Guys can wear a nice long shirt, bandhgala jacket, shirt and a blazer on top of a dhoti.”
So, are you ready to add this Indian outfit to your wardrobe, now? 

 
QUICK TIPS Don’t wear baggy tops or you will look like big box, since dhotis add volume too. Length is very important. Dhotis should be ankle-length when worn without heels — they should’t touch the floor. Anything shorter or longer is not flattering. A stole or a jacket can help style your look Go for stiffer fabrics like crepe instead of lycra. If you are going for stripes on your dhotis, go for vertical ones. They elongate your legs. Make up should be done according to the colours you wear; if your clothes are brighter and louder, go for nude make up and vice versa. Don’t go for elastic in front of the pants as your they will end up looking like pyjamas.

Designers like Payal Singhal, Nikasha Tawadey and Masaba Gupta have all shown dhoti pants on the ramp